Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
